In our 30 years as an Air Force family I’m happy to report that never at any one of the many places we lived were fresh, in the shell eggs not available. Our only experience with powdered eggs—-a military staple in some remote locations—-was, believe it or not, Paris, France. Ed, on the other hand, flying the line or in a war zone encountered them with expected regularity. Our “Powdered Eggs In Paris” episode was brought on by an unexpected incident involving an aborted landing in Rhein Main, Germany on our way to our three year assignment in Germany (1951-1954) and our alternate landing spot at Orly Field outside Paris.
Ed had been assigned to 12th Air Force Advon–A1 and A-4 (Operations and Intelligence). His job in operations was “Foreign Clearance Officer” for Europe, North Africa and the Middle East. He had arrived there about four months ahead of the rest of the family.
Our port call was for December 19th, 1951, just in time for Christmas. Our actual port call, due to truly lousy weather in Europe with aircraft stranded all over the map became January 2, 1952. Our flight (Westover Field, Massachusetts to Rhein Main, Germany) was in a C-97 cargo plane with those familiar orange nylon web seats running down either side of the cabin. The children, Bill age two and a half and Carol age four, were accommodated for sleeping purposes with pads of folded blankets on top of the webbed seats to make a reasonably comfortable bed. I sat up a la every other G.I. passenger on the airplane. It was my first experience on a military aircraft but not my last and a prophetic birds-eye look at a group of nine tiny little islands, the Azores, as well. We were assigned there 10 years later (1961-1965).It was early in the morning and most were still asleep. The cockpit door was open and when the aircraft commander looked back and saw I was awake he motioned me to come forward. “We’ll be landing in the Azores in half an hour. Would you like to watch the landing” he asked. I was thrilled. My short and much loved career as a flight attendant for TWA (called Airline Hostesses by TWA in 1947) jumped to the front of my memory. It was a job I had to quit as Flight Attendants were not allowed to be married.—-I stood between the pilot and co-pilot’s seats as those colorful little islands came slowly in to view then got closer and closer on that rare-for-January, sunny morning. They sat like nine sparkling little jewels of blues ranging from aqua to ultra marine in that deepest part of the Atlantic ocean. We made a perfect landing at the U.S. Airbase (Lajes Field) on the island of Terciera. Had breakfast—-with real eggs I might add—-took on fuel and headed for Rhein Main, Germany.
The aircraft approached Rhein Main, dropped into the glide path then suddenly pulled up sharply. The visibility was minimal. We headed for our only viable alternate, Orly field, Paris. Safely on the ground at Orly the ground crew opened the door to reveal a gap of about 12 inches between the aircraft door and the first step—-far too great for a four year old. The tarmack was visible several feet below. Orly had never had an aircraft as large as the C-97 and had no steps high enough to reach the door. Thankfully I had put a harness on two and a half year old Bill and we swung him across to the steps and the ground crew grabbed him. They grabbed Carol as well and placed her on the steps. We went down the steep, slippery, metal steps borrowed from the maintenance hanger and boarded a bus for the Littre Hotel. It was my first time in Paris. I was so excited but so dead tired I literally had to hold my eyes open to see anything. Our beds at the hotel were our first feather beds and again not the last. They were heavenly. We climbed into bed and were awakened—-half awake—-at 6:00 AM to return to Orly for another try at Rhein Main. Breakfast at Orly consisted of reconstituted (powdered) scrambled eggs and toast. My only question was “Where in the heck did they even find powdered eggs in Paris. Surely, no self respecting Frenchman would eat powdered eggs!” Somewhere there must have been a post WWII American military mess lurking! Eggs really are incredible but in powdered form I questioned edible.
The second try for Rhein Main was uneventful and in no time we boarded a train for Augsburg where Ed picked us up in our “new” used, tiny Fiat station wagon which got 40 miles to a gallon of gas. We drove to our new home—-the upper half of a German home in a small village 22 miles from Landsberg AFB. Another Air Force family lived downstairs. The Christmas tree was up, beautifully decorated and patiently waiting with the presents neatly distributed beneath for the belated celebration in our new home.
I was eager to get acquainted with my unfamiliar surroundings in this small Bavarian resort village of Bad Worishofen. The first important thing I learned was that our neighbors, also Americans, were members of the FSU (Field Service Unit, forerunner to the CIA) and not to expect to meet them or try to get to know them in any way—-so much for the next door neighbors. The second thing I learned was to say “Weis brot, bitta”—-White bread, please—-at the local bakery.
We began to make lasting friendships with Air Force members at the base. We would take German lessons, practice the language as best we could, travel, make new friends, entertain and be entertained a lot and realize more and more just how many things we were learning every single day that just a few months earlier, if asked, we would have considered beyond our opportunities or capabilities. Another adventure had begun.
As for food, it was bought at the Air Force Commissary at Landsburg AFB. If it wasn’t my turn to have the car (the guys who lived in “remote housing” car-pooled to work each day), transportation to the Air Base was in the back of a converted weapons carrier that friend John Pesch called “the kidney wrecker”. The truck had wooden bench seats built in to the back; the stacks of full grocery bags crackled, rattled and sometimes rolled on the floor. To put it mildly, it was not a posh shopping experience. As nearly as I can remember the eggs made it home uncracked every time inspite of the bumpy country roads. Happily, there were no more powdered egg episodes.
EGGS—-they must be one of the most versatile foods on the planet. They’re the original fast food! Prepare them boiled, poached, fried or scrambled as part of a quick, hot, healthy and satisfying breakfast. Combine chopped hard boiled eggs, with just enough mayonnaise, quick-to-slice scallions, crunchy chopped dill pickles—-or even faster, dill pickle relish—-and snipped fresh parsley or celery leaves for a creamy egg salad sandwich. Simply delicious. You can create an easy dinner omelet with grated cheese, chopped tomato, and a crumbling of Italian herbs—-add a little diced ham or crisp bacon bits if you’re in the mood. It’s, oh, so good and so quickly done. Top your omelet with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkling of paprika for flavor and color. Serve it with a warmed baguette loaf, a melt of butter and slightly warm preserves on the side. Add a simple green salad dressed with extra virgin olive oil and a little herb flavored vinegar.
As a late night supper, whether you’re wide awake or half asleep, a skillet full of eggs is a no-brainer. They’re comforting, economical and quick as a wink. At our house we love scrambled eggs with a side of chunked bananas sautéed in butter, a sprinkling of brown sugar and a squeeze of lemon. There’s no doubt about it, eggs are your best friend, be it for breakfast, lunch, dinner or midnight snack. Check any basic cook book if you need omelet lessons.
Eggs in any form make me happy any time. Just be sure the eggs you buy are fresh. Really fresh eggs are delicious. That said, here’s a quote from The Joy of Cooking. “Strange as it may seem after stressing the purchase of fresh eggs, we now tack on an amendment. Do not use eggs fresher than three days old for hard-cooked eggs or for beating and baking. If you do, hard-cooked eggs will turn greenish and become difficult to peel, and cakes may fail to rise properly because the eggs will not beat to the proper volume” So, with that caveat we continue. Be sure you buy eggs that have been kept refrigerated and are not dirty or cracked. Don’t leave eggs in the car on a warm day and do refrigerate them as soon as you get them home.
Eggs can be, nutritionally, an important component in most daily diets. The Joy of Cooking says “–for eggs contain all the balanced nutrients from which a complete organism develops”. Our food industry, long ago, saw fit to develop for us quite acceptable egg substitutes such as Egg Beaters for those with cholesterol concerns–not quite as tasty as a whole egg in the shell but healthier for those who worry.
On the subject of consuming fresh raw eggs, Julia Child comments in her book written with Jacque Pepin, Julia and Jacque–Cooking at Home, that “Raw eggs can contain harmful bacteria, especially salmonella, but since the salmonella scare some years ago egg producers, distributors, and markets have cleaned up and modernized their egg facilities, and the danger now is minimal if you are careful. Whether or not to eat uncooked eggs is entirely up to you, the consumer.” After that somewhat reassuring quote from everyone’s favorite chef Julia Child, you may want to try some flavorful home made mayonnaise or a lemony Hollandaise. Both recipes require raw eggs be used. The recipes are classics. You’ll find them both below.
One last comment on raw eggs for those of you who frequent your friendly neighborhood bistros and take your out-of-town guests there, as well. There is a popular practice in certain “cultural pockets” of having available a fresh raw whole egg to put in a glass of beer—-as ordered, of course. That must be nutrition at it’s happiest! And when tomato juice is added (called red beer) it even adds a little vitamin C to the mix—-almost a complete meal in a glass! Now what can be better than that?
If you live in a resort community, such as one of the many in our beautiful corner of Northwest Montana, vacation season can be both winter and summer and the arrival of visitors always seems imminent. A few fast, easy and delicious egg recipes are perfect, really essential, to have at your fingertips. I’ve included two below, Make Ahead Breakfast Bake and Creamed Eggs and Corn Bread. The ingredients are for the most part inexpensive and usually right in the pantry and fridge. Tape the recipes to the inside of your pantry door. When someone asks “Is there anything we can help with in the kitchen?”, you can point to the pantry door and answer, “Yes, thank you, get cracking!”
Cooking with eggs is great fun. You may even want to try your hand at a light and elegant soufflé, or a luscious Creme Brulee—-and if you want to be loved by all, you can make a plate full of deviled eggs. They’re the first things to disappear at any picnic or from any party tray.
COMPANY’S COMING!
When we were living on the water in Gig Harbor, Washington and during the time I was still interior designing I designed a small Bed and Breakfast. The house was in a lovely, quiet spot with a lush inviting green lawn that sloped gently down toward the beach. The property was bordered by privacy hedges of rhododendron and azaleas creating an oasis of tranquility. Guests would often visit for the weekend just to get away from the bustle of Seattle’s lifestyle. A more relaxing spot would be hard to imagine and breakfasts at the B & B were hard to beat.
My friend/client was a member of the local Bed and Breakfast Association. They met once a month and along with the busy conversations regarding local activities and town gossip they traded recipes that would be memorable for their guests. Here is one of those recipes. Where it originated I haven’t the foggiest. All I know is that you can make it the night before and that it’s substantial and really good. It serves 8 to 10 people–and maybe more–uses 10 eggs and a lot of other yummy ingredients and is truly rich and delicious. I adopted the recipe when we owned a log home on Flathead Lake where we often had back to back summer visitors. I used it many times. It’s a crunchy visual delight as the star of your breakfast/brunch buffet with tantallizing aroma floating from the steaming casserole. Serve with Mimosas (Champagne and orange juice) or just plain orange juice, warmed bakery Croissants with warm jam and butter. Coffee, of course!
Make-ahead Breakfast Bake
Serves 8 to 10
- 2 cups frozen grated hash brown potatoes
- 1 cup seasoned croutons
- 1 1/2 cups grated cheddar cheese
- 1 cup diced ham
- 1 cup sliced mushrooms, sauteed
- 1 1/2 cups grated Swiss cheese
- 10 eggs
- 2 cups milk
- Salt & pepper to taste
- 1 tsp. red pepper flakes
- 1 cup crushed potato chips
Spray a 9 x 13 inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray. Sprinkle frozen grated potatoes evenly over the bottom of the pan. Top with layers of croutons, Cheddar cheese, ham, mushrooms and Swiss Cheese in that order. In a large bowl, beat eggs, milk, salt, pepper and red pepper flakes, until frothy. Pour egg mixture over layers. Cover pan and refrigerate overnight. In the morning, sprinkle crushed potato chips over top. Bake in a preheated 350 degree oven 1 hour, or until eggs have set. Cool slightly before serving.
Perfectly Wonderful Creamed Eggs and Corn Bread
Brunch or Supper
Serves 12
Now, y’all, does that sound southern or what? This is actually a recipe I was given while living in San Antonio, Texas. It’s a delicious brunch or supper recipe—-and fits well into “food for the unexpected guest” category. You can make the recipe the night before and refrigerate it and make the corn bread ahead and freeze it. Serve some spiral baked ham slices or cold roast chicken with it if you’d like.
Add a large salad of crisp cool mixed greens and lots of thinly sliced fresh pears or other seasonal fruit. Dress it with raspberry or orange vinaigrette.
If you’re serving this dish for supper, Bloody Marys, Old Fashioneds, Scotch on the Rocks or a nice wine, red or white, all work well. For pre-supper nibbles, add something simple such as, salted toasted almonds and pecans and a few raw veggies with a light Ranch Dressing dip for nibbling. Dessert? Angel Food Cake with Sweeetened Strawberries and Whipped Cream (Add orange liqueur to the strawberries for delicious Strawberries Romanoff) is perfect. And freshly brewed coffee, of course.
Creamed Eggs
- 1 large onion chopped (3/4 cup)
- 1/3 cup butter
- 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
- 2 tsp. dry mustard
- 1 1/2 tsp. salt
- 1/4 tsp. pepper
- 3 1/2 cups milk
- 2 cups shredded Cheddar cheese(8 oz)
- 1 -10 oz. pkg. frozen peas
- 12 hard-cooked eggs, sliced
- 1 (2.2 oz.) can sliced ripe olives (about 1/2 cup)
Cook and stir onion in butter in a 3 quart saucepan over medium heat until onion is tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in flour, mustard, salt and pepper. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until bubbly: remove from heat. Stir in milk. Heat to boiling stirring constantly. Boil and stir 1 minute. Add cheese, cook and stir until cheese is melted. Rinse peas under running water to separate, drain. Stir peas, eggs and olives carefully into cheese sauce.
This recipe can be covered and refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Reheat over medium low heat, about 25 minutes. Serve over corn bread. Makes 12 servings.
Corn Bread
- 1 1/2 cups cornmeal
- 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
- 2 tsp. baking powder
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1 tsp. salt
- 1/2 tsp. baking soda
- 1/4 cup shortening, softened
- 1 1/2 cups buttermilk
- 2 eggs
Heat oven to 450 degrees. Mix all ingredients; beat vigorously for 30 seconds. Pour into a greased 9 x 9 inch square pan. Bake until top springs back when lightly touched in center, about 20 minutes. Can be frozen ahead and thawed overnight in refrigerator. Reheat at 350 degrees for about 10 minutes. Cut warm bread into 12 pieces.
Note: If you use a boxed corn bread mix look for one with very little sugar. Most mixes are too sweet and cake like for this Creamed Eggs and Corn Bread combination.
DEVILED EGGS
I couldn’t possibly end this story without at least a few recipes for the most popular item on any hor d’ oeuvre or snack tray—-those magically disappearing Deviled Eggs. The hand is quicker than the eye. Now you see them, now you don’t.
The number of Deviled Egg recipes is almost infinite. Every cook has her own favorites. Here are three of mine.
I loved these for picnic suppers in Montana or on lazy August afternoons on the deck in Gig Harbor, WA.—-and for cocktail gatherings, any where we’ve ever lived.
Classic Deviled Eggs
6 servings
- 6 eggs, hard cooked
- 3 to 4 Tbs. mayonnaise
- 1/4 tsp. salt
- Dash of pepper
- 1/8 tsp. sugar
- 1 tsp.Dijon mustard
- 1 Tbs. each finely chopped celery and chopped scallions
Cut eggs in two lengthwise. Put yolks in a bowl and mash well. Add remaining ingredients. Mix well and fill egg whites. Garnish with minced fresh parsley or paprika.
Note: I look for small eggs when making deviled eggs for a cocktail party and up the egg count from six to nine.
Olive Deviled Eggs
12 servings
- 12 Eggs, hard-cooked
- 1/3 cup mayonnaise or more
- 1/2 tsp. oregano, crushed
- 2 Tbs. minced pimiento stuffed green olives
- 1/4 tsp salt
- 1/8 tsp black pepper
- 1/8 tsp. garlic powder
- A pinch of sugar
Cut eggs in half lengthwise. Put yolks in a small bowl. Mash. Add remaining ingredients. Mix well. Fill whites with mixture. Garnish with stuffed olive slices. Cover and refrigerate. Place egg halves on a lettuce lined serving plate.
Pungent Stuffed Eggs
8 servings
This recipe is from an old James Beard cookbook, Menu’s For Entertaining. It’s part of a menu called “A Beer Picnic For A Large Gathering” in which, interestingly, three different deviled egg recipes are suggsted. This one was my favorite. It’s delicious with robust Asian flavors. If you love cookbooks Menus For Entertaining is worth a search on Amazon or in a used book store.
2 cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbs. curry powder 1 Tbs. butter
8 eggs, hard-cooked and halved 1 to 1 1/2 Tbs. Mango chutney, finely chopped if necessary
4 Tbs. sour cream and/or mayonnaise or a little more Chopped Honey Roasted Peanuts for garnish
Cut eggs in half lengthwise. Put yolks in a bowl and mash. Cook garlic and curry powder in butter over medium heat for about 3 minutes. Remove from heat. Combine chutney and mayonnaise/sour cream with egg yolks. Mix in curry and garlic mixture. Fill egg halves with mixture and garnish with chopped peanuts. Cover and refrigerate.
TWO SAVORY SAUCES
Home made mayonnaise is, to me, the ultimate sandwich spread. It’s better than even the best commercial mayonnaise available. From-scratch Hollandaise (no package mix here) is the most perfect partner on earth for green vegetables such as broccoli and asparagus. It’s essential for poached eggs in an Eggs Benedict and heavenly on broiled or roasted meats. Because both recipes require the incredible egg to construct I would be remiss if I didn’t include them here. They’re too perfect and important to leave out. Either can be made quickly in a blender or food processor.
Mayonnaise
- 1 egg
- 1 tsp. Dijon mustard
- Pinch of salt
- 1 to 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice or vinegar
- 1 cup salad oil or partial olive/salad oil
Put egg, lemon juice , mustard, salt and 1/4 cup oil in blender. Blend for about 5 seconds. Remove cover and add remaining oil gradually. Run blender for a few seconds after the last of the oil is added. Scrape down sides of blender and transfer mayonnaise to a clean jar.
Hollandaise Sauce
- 4 egg yolks
- 2 Tbs.lemon juice
- 1/2 tsp. salt
- 1/2 tsp. dry mustard
- A dash of Tabasco Sauce
- 1 cup butter heated almost to the boiling point
Place egg yolks, lemon juice,and seasonings in blender and blend for a few seconds. Do not overblend as eggs will liquify. Remove cover and pour in bubbling hot butter in a steady slow stream. Blend until smooth and creamy. Do not overblend. Makes approximately 1 1/2 cups
I hope you’ll try all of these recipes as the need arises. They’re wonderful. Keep them at your fingertips. You’ll use them often.
Enjoy!
Martha